After celebrating ten years as the style director of Homme de Lanvin, Lucas Ossendrijver has drawn up the 2017 summer collection as a manifesto inspired by handmade craftsmanship: “I decided to go with room and creativity. This collection is not about a single concept but rather a collage made up of different possibilities. It’s about freedom.” This desire to experiment, made possible by the skill of the ateliers, is naturally reflected in the collection as classical and industrial textures rub elbows in matte and glossy finishes. The understatement of coated materials sets off the lustre of bright satin. Dimensions rise to fresh and often outsized proportions; shoulders are levelled. Industrial, almost toxic, tones mingle with romantic pastels or a ‘Night Flowers’ screen print. Embroideries compete for effect. Freedom is the order of the day with expressions of style in layers, long-sleeved shirts, t-shirts and short jackets. Colours of every stripe, whether classic or enlarged, dance and weave in every direction in line with the cut.
Here and there, tacked topstitched lines interweave along the length of a glen plaid trouser pocket, the front of an oversize shirt or the sleeve of a jacket. Often hand-stitched, these seams emphasize the figure and embody a recurring pattern, like a new stripe. Likewise, the reflecting strip keeps popping up in this dynamic wardrobe like a leitmotiv, be it sewn, applied or ironed-on. For though great care has gone into making this collection, it draws its inspiration from items of the urban wardrobe, such as loose jeans with shortened cuffs, coloured shoelaces and satin shorts inspired by sports, that express the need for movement. Calm and confident, the Lanvin man wears his memories and promises in the form of these trousers whose turned Jacquard blurs its sharp nuances. Here, a jacket in a splendid patchwork of buckskin and knitwear. There, bindings dyed by hand and put together in shaded colours to make up a stunning sleeveless t-shirt. The fabric for the trouser knees and jacket elbows is skilfully sewn before being pressed and unstitched to form a novel and natural pleat. The same technique brings out new lines in a leather jacket and brings the interior detail of a parka to the surface.
Everywhere, ties are sewn onto a jacket or fastened to the odd clasp around the wrist. Straps inspired by Lanvin handbags make well-timed appearances as they move with the body and transform into items of contemporary jewellery that speak of affection. Romantic symbols such as arrows, roses, tattooed babes or stars are in turn cross-stitched on a short-sleeved shirt or a pair of sneakers, applied onto patches such as military badges, or fashioned into jewels worn on the jacket wrist or collar like charms. A single word appears on the back of sneakers with contrasting sand-rubbed vulcanized soles: ‘Error’, like an incantation, a decision to accept it and keep moving forward.
Have a beautiful and successful week!
[RUNWAY BRILLIANCE] LANVIN MEN’S SUMMER 2017