A certain idea of movement is visible through techniques and shapes, revealing the off-beat nonchalance of this wardrobe for spring-summer 2017 created by style director Lucas Ossendrijver. Here Lanvin’s iconic trainers play more than ever with materials and shades: like the grained leather, the canvas used is aged and proportions are fined down. The vulcanised sole, entirely made by hand and assembled directly onto the shoe, is for the first time decorated with screen-printed graffiti, that appears to have arrived at random, in a moving reminder of an everyday urban setting.
The more traditional footwear, such as the derbies or Chelsea boots, state their identity strongly, with luxurious details: sprayed or textured leather, perforations and metal eyelets, natural latex crepe sole. Technical materials are used alongside luxurious skins, as in the “cross-training” trainers in lightweight technical fabric or mirror-effect calfskin, or the “creepers” in hologram-effect leather or textured-print, sharkskin look leather.
Prints give echo, with vintage “crane” motifs, birds that are the symbols of long life in China; a motif that is also included in the ready-to-wear collection. Marbled-effect leather is also used, along with woven nubuck, two-tone python skin and brushed calfskin. Finally, there is a new collection of sandals, in napa leather or matt python, inspired by Greek designs, and right for all life’s moments, from the highly formal to the most casual.
This season Lanvin bags multiply external signs of masculine elegance. Double zip, Lanvin logo embossed in silver on the leather, leather-covered buttons and matching luggage label, softened calfskin, day or weekend bag – every detail is luxurious, facilitating everyday usage.
Both the “Messenger” and the “Sailor” bag, two major pieces in last season’s show, come in new, easy to wear sizes. The zip backpacks, the house’s best sellers, have also been lightened, and come in a wide range of colours and materials, nylon embroidered with Chinese cranes or printed with koi carp, cotton gabardine, python or houndstooth Lurex.
This absolute luxury of materials and determined search for new textures and usages is also found in the collections of small, matching leather goods: belts (rubber or crocodile look calfskin) and jewellery: hedgehogs and birds, lucky charm bracelets and talisman pendants are decorated with semi-precious stones.
Have a beautiful and successful week!
[RUNWAY BRILLIANCE] LANVIN 2017 RUNWAY ACCESSORIES MEN’S COLLECTION